Quick answer

The Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier launched in 2007. Steel models come in 28 mm, 33 mm, 36 mm, 40 mm, and 42 mm cases. Replicas copy those numbers. A quartz copy sells for about $60 to $150. A copy with a clone ETA 2824-2 or 2892-A2 automatic sells for about $300 to $700. A genuine steel Ballon Bleu sells new from about $5,000 to $8,000. Sale and import of counterfeits is illegal in the US under 18 U.S.C. 2320 and 19 U.S.C. 1526.

What the genuine steel watch uses

  • Case and bracelet: 316L stainless steel. Polished bezel and lugs. Brushed case sides.
  • Crystal: sapphire with an anti-reflective coating.
  • Crown: fluted crown at 3 o'clock under a steel arch. Cartier lists the cabochon on most steel models as a synthetic blue spinel.
  • Movement: caliber 057 quartz in the 28 mm, caliber 049 automatic in the 33 mm and larger sizes. Caliber 049 is a modified ETA 2892-A2 with a 42-hour power reserve and a rate of 28,800 vph.
  • Water resistance: 30 m on most sizes, 50 m on some.
  • Dial: guilloche texture, roman numerals, blued steel sword hands.

Replica movement tiers

  1. Quartz. Common in 28 mm and 33 mm copies. Seconds hand ticks once per second.
  2. Low-grade automatic. Copies of the Miyota 8215 or a DG2813. Sweep seconds at 21,600 vph. Rotor noise is loud.
  3. Clone ETA 2824-2 or 2892-A2. 28,800 vph, 38 to 42 hour reserve. Many parts swap with the Swiss original.

Points to compare against a genuine case

  • Case thickness. The genuine 33 mm measures about 9.96 mm. Copies add 1 mm to 2 mm.
  • Cabochon. The genuine stone sits flush and bends light. Copies use glass or resin and look flat.
  • Dial print. Cartier and Swiss Made sit at set positions. Copies drift on spacing and font weight.
  • Date aperture at 3 o'clock. Genuine uses a framed window with a dial-matched disc. Copies show a white disc.
  • Bracelet. Genuine runs solid links into a signed deployant clasp. Copies use folded links and stamped clasps.
  • Caseback. Engraving depth and serial sequence. Cartier serial formats change by year, so compare against a same-year genuine case.

Legal note

Trafficking in counterfeit goods carries up to 10 years in prison for a first offense under 18 U.S.C. 2320. US Customs and Border Protection can seize and destroy shipments under 19 U.S.C. 1526. A replica is not a Cartier product, holds no Cartier warranty, and cannot be serviced by Cartier.

Questions to ask a seller

  • Which movement is inside, and what is the beat rate?
  • What is the measured case diameter and thickness?
  • Is the crystal sapphire or mineral glass?
  • What is the return policy and the payment method?