Short answer

A Rolex listed as a "white gold replica" is not white gold. Genuine Rolex white gold is an 18k alloy: 75 percent gold, with palladium or nickel, and a rhodium finish. Replicas sold under that label use stainless steel, gold plating, or tungsten. The claim fails on a scale and under an X-ray test.

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What the metal is

Sellers use "white gold" for three builds.

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  • 316L or 904L stainless steel with rhodium plating. Plating thickness runs 0.5 to 5 microns.
  • Steel or brass with 18k gold plating. The gold layer is measured in microns, not grams.
  • Tungsten alloy with plating. Tungsten density is 19.25 g/cm3. 18k white gold is about 15.5 g/cm3. Steel is 7.9 g/cm3. Tungsten copies feel heavy and hold no gold.

Weight and price

A Rolex Day-Date 40 in 18k white gold weighs about 200 g. A steel copy of the same case size lands near 130 g to 150 g. A tungsten copy can pass 180 g.

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Gold content sets the price gap. A white gold Day-Date holds about 100 g to 110 g of gold, or 3.2 to 3.5 troy ounces. At $2,400 per ounce, the metal costs more than $7,500. A replica priced at $300 to $900 holds no such gold. No build does.

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Hallmarks and stamps

Real Rolex white gold cases carry the Rolex crown, the fineness mark "750" or "18k", and Swiss assay marks. The Swiss 18k mark is the St. Bernard dog head. Laser stamps sit on the caseback and lugs. Most replicas show no assay mark, a wrong font, or a "750" stamp on steel.

Tests that give an answer

  1. Weigh the watch in grams. Compare to the published weight for the reference number.
  2. Read the surface with an XRF gun. XRF reads the top few microns. It reports plating, not the core.
  3. Measure plating with an ultrasonic gauge. Gold plate reads in microns.
  4. Inspect hallmarks with a 10x loupe.

Acid tests damage the finish and read the same surface layer. They do not name the base metal.

US law

18 U.S.C. § 2320 covers trafficking in counterfeit goods. A first offense carries up to 10 years in prison and a $2 million fine for an individual. US Customs and Border Protection seizes counterfeit watches at import and destroys them. The Lanham Act, 15 U.S.C. § 1114, lets Rolex sue sellers and recover statutory damages. Import for personal use is barred. Resale carries more exposure.

Questions for a seller

  • Base metal, by alloy name.
  • Plating thickness in microns, and the plating metal.
  • Weight in grams, with the reference number.
  • Photos of the caseback hallmarks.

If the seller cannot answer all four, the "white gold" label has no support.