A fake Rolex Submariner 16613 is a counterfeit copy of the two-tone Submariner Date that Rolex built from 1988 until roughly 2010, when the reference 116613 replaced it. The genuine watch pairs a 40 mm steel Oyster case with an 18k yellow gold bezel, crown, and bracelet center links. Almost every replica fails on that single point: the gold is plating or gold-filled base metal, not solid 18k, and the difference shows up on a scale, inside the clasp, and at the edges of the case within weeks of wear.

What the Genuine 16613 Actually Is

  • Case: 40 mm stainless steel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal, 300 m water resistance.
  • Movement: Rolex caliber 3135, automatic, 31 jewels, 28,800 vph, hacking, quickset date.
  • Gold: 18k yellow gold bezel and crown, solid gold bracelet center links, 750 hallmark on the case flank and clasp.
  • Dial: blue or black with gold-tone printing. The bezel insert matches the dial color.
  • Markings: model number engraved between the lugs at 6 o'clock, serial number between the lugs at 12 o'clock.

How to Check a 16613 Before You Pay

Run these checks in order. Any single failure is enough to walk away. You need a kitchen scale, a jeweler's loupe, and access to a watchmaker.

  1. Weigh the watch. A genuine 16613 on a full bracelet is heavier than a plated fake, because a large share of the bracelet is solid gold rather than steel.
  2. Find the 750 hallmark and the Rolex coronet on the clasp and the case flank. Fakes often have no hallmark, or a shallow stamped one that rubs off.
  3. Scratch the inside of the clasp with a fingernail. Solid 18k stays yellow. Plating reveals grey steel underneath.
  4. Inspect the bezel insert. A real 16613 uses an 18k gold insert with crisp, thin font and a centered pearl. Fakes use plastic or coated steel with thick font and an off-center pearl.
  5. Check the date window and the cyclops. Rolex magnification runs about 2.5x and the date font is sharp. Most fakes run 1.5x to 2x with a fuzzy date wheel.
  6. Read the dial text under a loupe. Look at the spacing of the SWISS MADE signature at 6 o'clock and the shape of the coronet. Heavy, blobby printing is a fake signal.
  7. Confirm the engravings between the lugs. A 16613 should show the model number at 6 o'clock and a serial at 12 o'clock, cut cleanly into the metal.
  8. Have a watchmaker open the caseback. A real 16613 carries a caliber 3135 with proper finishing. Fakes carry decorated ETA or Chinese clone movements with glued-on plates.

Common Fakes of the 16613

  • Gold tone that reads orange rather than soft yellow, usually visible in daylight photos.
  • Gold plating that wears through on the clasp edges and crown guards first.
  • A case that measures 41 mm or sits thicker than a genuine 40 mm case.
  • Soft bezel action with a mushy click instead of 120 crisp positions.
  • Generic caseback engraving and mismatched bracelet end link fit.
  • Rubber or silicone gaskets that fail a pressure test.

Why Buying a Fake 16613 Is a Bad Deal

Federal law treats counterfeit goods as contraband. Trafficking in them is a crime under 18 U.S.C. 2320, and U.S. Customs and Border Protection can seize a counterfeit shipment at the border. Passing a replica off as a genuine watch can bring fraud charges on top of the trademark violation.

The practical costs add up faster. Rolex will not service or authenticate a counterfeit, and authorized service centers may refuse to return it. Independent watchmakers often decline the work because replica parts do not interchange with genuine components. Water resistance is unknown, so the 300 m rating on the dial means nothing. Resale value sits near zero, and no dealer or auction house will take it. The 1:1 super clone language sellers use describes appearance, not function.

If You Want the Two-Tone Look

Buy a genuine 16613 from a seller who will meet your watchmaker for a pre-purchase inspection, and budget roughly $8,000 to $15,000 depending on dial variant, condition, and whether box and papers are included. If that number is out of reach, a steel Submariner 16610 or 14060M, a Tudor Black Bay, or a two-tone diver from a mainstream brand gives you a watch that can be serviced, carries a warranty, and holds value. None of them are a 16613, and all of them beat a counterfeit that cannot be repaired or resold.