If a seller lists a watch as a Rolex 1666/6, the number itself is your first red flag. Rolex has never published a 1666/6 reference. The real Submariner references in that family use five digits, such as 16610, 16613, and 16618. You cannot authenticate a watch against a reference that does not exist in factory records. Before any money moves, ask for the full case reference, the serial number, and clear photos of the movement, the caseback, the clasp codes, and the paperwork. Then check those numbers against independent records. A seller who dodges the request, sends stock photos, or pushes you to pay off-platform is telling you what you need to know.
Confirm the reference and serial first
The reference number and the serial number have to match the era of the watch and each other. A five-digit Submariner case reference sits between the lugs at the 12 o'clock side. The serial sits between the lugs at the 6 o'clock side on older examples, and on the inner rehaut on later ones. Ask the seller to photograph both with the bracelet removed. Compare the serial range to known production years. A serial that falls outside the correct window for that reference is a mismatch, and mismatched numbers are the single most common sign of a counterfeit or a reassembled watch.
What to inspect on the case, dial, and bracelet
- Dial printing: the coronet, the text, and the depth rating should sit square with even spacing. Crooked or thick lettering is a giveaway.
- Cyclops and crystal: the magnifier on a genuine sapphire crystal sits over the date with no distortion ring around the edge.
- Hands: the seconds hand and the hour markers should line up with the printed markers when the minute hand passes them.
- Bracelet and clasp: the end links should fit the lugs with no gap, and the clasp stamp should match the bracelet style sold with that reference.
- Case finishing: brushed surfaces and polished bevels should show a clean transition, not the soft, rounded edges that come from heavy polishing.
- Movement: request a photo or a short video of the balance wheel and the rotor engraving. Refusal here ends the conversation.
Spec bands a genuine steel Submariner of that era should fall in
- Case diameter: about 40 mm, with a lug width near 20 mm.
- Movement: automatic caliber 3135 for most of that production run, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, which is 4 Hz.
- Power reserve: roughly 42 to 48 hours on a healthy mainspring.
- Water resistance: rated to 300 meters, which means the caseback, crown, and gaskets must all be intact.
- Crystal: sapphire with an anti-reflective coating and a date magnifier at 2.5x.
- Accuracy: a serviced example should hold within a few seconds a day, not drift by minutes.
Pitfalls that cost buyers the most
- Buying on a reference number that no factory catalog lists, such as 1666/6. There is nothing to verify, so there is nothing to trust.
- Trusting a seller who only shows studio renders or photos borrowed from another listing.
- Overlooking a franken watch, where a genuine case carries an aftermarket dial, hands, or movement parts.
- Ignoring a heavily polished case that hides laser-etched coronet details and rehaut engraving.
- Skipping an independent inspection to save time, then discovering the problem after the return window closes.
- Assuming a low price on a steel sports model means a bargain instead of a counterfeit or a stolen watch.
FAQ
Is there a real Rolex reference 1666/6?
No. Rolex catalog references in the Submariner family are five digits, and 1666/6 does not appear among them. Treat the number as a marketing label, not a factory designation.
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Can a good replica pass a visual check?
Some copies photograph well. They fall apart under a loupe on dial printing, bracelet stamping, and movement finishing, and they fail when a watchmaker opens the case.
Is it legal to buy a counterfeit watch in the United States?
Counterfeit goods are illegal to sell and can be seized at import. Buying one leaves you with no warranty, no service support, and possible legal exposure.
What is the safest path before I pay?
Get the reference and serial in writing, have an independent watchmaker inspect the movement, and use a payment method that gives you a documented dispute process.