The best fake IW545170 is a top-tier build, the tier dealers label 1:1 or super clone, where the case is cut to the reference's real proportions, the dial print holds up under a loupe, and the movement behind the caseback is finished rather than stamped. Those three things, dial, case, and movement, decide most of what you get for your money. Strap, buckle, box, and papers are the cheap remainder and should never drive the purchase. Judge every candidate against IWC's own published reference data for your exact variant before you pay.
The four criteria that separate tiers
- Dial printing and hand geometry, the part everyone sees at arm's length.
- Case profile: thickness, lug curve, and the polish-to-brush contrast.
- Movement finishing and winding feel, decisive on display-back builds.
- Caseback engraving and the reference stamps between the lugs.
1. Dial printing and hands
The dial is where budget builds fall apart. On a small-seconds layout, check the subdial hand: it should reach the printed track instead of stopping short. Applied markers should sit flat with a crisp bevel, and the brand text should be raised pad printing, not a flat ink look. Under magnification, clean letters have square edges; soft letters bleed into the dial surface.
Pros
- Easy to compare against reference photos before buying.
- The single biggest visual difference between tiers.
Cons
- Almost impossible to fix later; dial swaps rarely line up.
- Photos from dealers are often too low-resolution to judge.
Best for: a one-watch purchase you plan to wear daily, since the dial is what people actually see.
2. Case profile and crystal
Thickness and lug curve matter more than diameter. A case that runs a millimeter thick sits proud on the wrist and reads wrong from the side. Look at the crown engraving, the polish on the flanks against the brushed top surfaces, and the crystal. Underside anti-reflective coating keeps reflections down and is one of the first things budget builds skip.
Pros
- Correct proportions make a mid-tier build read as high-end on the wrist.
- Case work is measurable with calipers against published specs.
Cons
- Plating and polish wear through faster on cheap cases.
- Lug holes and spring bar fit vary between batches.
Best for: buyers who care about how the watch sits under a shirt cuff rather than how it photographs flat.
3. Movement and display back
On a display-back build the movement is the whole argument. Top-tier pieces use a decorated hand-wound base with Geneva stripes, blued screws, and a signed balance cock. Budget pieces use a printed plate over a stock movement. Ask for a running video: winding should feel tight rather than gritty, and the beat rate should match what the seller claims.
Pros
- Visible finishing is the clearest proof of tier.
- Serviceable by a watchmaker in most cases.
Cons
- Printed striping and fake screws fool nobody who knows movements.
- Declared power reserve is often optimistic.
Best for: anyone who takes the watch off in company, or who plans a later movement swap.
4. Strap, buckle, and the parts you can replace
Strap quality is the least important criterion because it is the easiest to change. Judge the tang shape, the stitching density, and the spring bar fit, then plan on replacing the strap anyway. A good aftermarket strap does more for the look than an extra tier of case finishing.
Pros
- Cheap upgrade with an outsized visual payoff.
- Original strap condition tells you how hard the watch was worn.
Cons
- Stamped buckles are a common corner cut.
- Dealer photos often show a display strap, not the one shipped.
Best for: budget buyers who want the best wrist presence per dollar.
Price tiers and what each one buys
Entry tier looks acceptable in photos and thin in hand: soft printing, shallow engraving, a movement you would rather not open. Mid tier fixes the case and leaves the dial soft. Top tier gets proportions and finishing right and costs a multiple of entry. A franken build, a top-tier base with a genuine dial or a Swiss movement, only makes sense if you enjoy the project itself.
Red flags
- Reused stock photos instead of dated QC shots of your actual unit.
- No video of the watch running and winding.
- Swiss made claims on a clearly Chinese movement.
- A price far under the tier the listing claims.
Bottom line
Buy the top tier you can afford, spend the difference on the dial and case rather than the box and papers, and confirm the details with a QC video before shipping. If the dial print and the case proportions check out, the rest is maintenance.