The best answer to a search for a fake IW328064 is a high-tier automatic build with a clone movement, a case cut to the dimensions IWC publishes for that reference, and a dial that matches the genuine layout. Quartz versions and budget automatics appear under the same reference number in listings and fail on exactly those points. I rank every version on six checks: case size and profile, dial and date window, movement type, crystal and coating, bracelet or strap, and how much the seller shows you before payment.

What IW328064 actually refers to

IW328064 is an IWC reference number rather than a model name. People searching for a fake IW328064 usually want a replica of that exact variant because of its dial color, case metal, or strap configuration. Replica sellers reuse reference numbers, so one string can point to three different builds from three different workshops. Use the number as a starting point and check the watch you are shown against the specification IWC lists for that reference. If the case size, dial layout, or strap on offer does not match the official specification, the listing is wrong no matter how good the photos look.

Check 1: Case size and profile

Case geometry is the first thing a knowledgeable buyer notices on the wrist and in hand. Lug to lug, thickness, and the curve of the lugs decide whether the watch sits like the original or like a slab.

Pros of a good case

  • Dimensions measured by the seller with calipers match the published figures.
  • Lug profile and case flank angle look correct in a side photo, not only in a top-down shot.
  • Crown guards and crown diameter are proportional to the case, so winding feels normal.

Cons of a weak case

  • Reused cases from a different reference run thicker or wider than the original.
  • Polished and brushed zones bleed into each other, which shows up in daylight.
  • Caseback engraving is shallow or misaligned.

Check 2: Dial, hands, and date window

Print quality and alignment carry more weight than any other single detail, because the dial is what you look at all day.

Pros

  • Applied markers sit level, with even lume fill and no overspill.
  • Hand length reaches the correct point on the track, and the seconds hand sweeps without stutter.
  • If the reference has a date, the window sits where the genuine layout puts it and the wheel font is close.

Cons

  • Text that is too bold, too thin, or spaced wrong, which is visible in a macro shot.
  • Date window cut into the wrong position because the factory used a stock dial.
  • Misaligned chapter ring or a rehaut that is too deep.

Check 3: Movement

Movement decides service life. A clone automatic with a smooth sweep and a working date change is the floor for anything you plan to wear often.

Pros

  • Automatic winding with a rotor that spins freely and a power reserve that holds overnight.
  • Hacking seconds and a quick-set date that both function.
  • Beat rate and sweep match the original, not the visible tick of a quartz.

Cons

  • Quartz movements hidden behind a decorated plate, which is the most common bait and switch.
  • Rotor noise and a stiff crown that signal a low grade automatic.
  • No spare parts, so a failure means replacing the watch rather than repairing it.

Check 4: Crystal and coating

Anti-reflective coating changes how the dial reads. Double-sided coating gives the near invisible glass look on most modern references.

Pros

  • Dial stays legible at an angle with minimal glare.
  • Crystal sits flush with the bezel instead of standing proud.

Cons

  • Uncoated mineral glass with a blue or purple sheen that the original does not have.
  • Coating that scratches and leaves visible marks within weeks.

Check 5: Bracelet, strap, and clasp

Hardware is where mid-tier builds cut cost. Feel the end link fit and the clasp action before you judge the watch.

Pros

  • End links sit tight against the case with no visible gap or rattle.
  • Clasp engraving is crisp and the closure snaps shut with one firm press.
  • Strap stitching and leather thickness suit the reference.

Cons

  • Hollow end links that flex and let the bracelet move side to side.
  • Screws that strip the first time you resize the bracelet.
  • Clasp logo stamped off center.

Check 6: Seller proof before payment

Photos of the actual watch, not catalog renders, are the only evidence that matters. A seller who cannot produce a dated shot with a timegrapher readout is a risk regardless of the tier claimed.

Pros

  • Real photos of the exact unit, including caseback and clasp.
  • Willingness to answer measurement questions in writing.
  • Clear return terms stated before the sale.

Cons

  • Stock images pulled from the manufacturer site.
  • Pressure to pay through an untraceable method.
  • Vague answers when you ask about movement type.

Verdict by buyer type

If you want one watch to wear daily, buy the high-tier automatic with a clone movement and a correctly sized case, and accept that you are paying for appearance and not for Swiss service support. If you are buying to compare details against photos of an original, prioritize dial printing and case dimensions over movement brand names. If you want the lowest possible spend, a quartz version under this reference number will look acceptable in a photo and disappointing on the wrist, so treat it as costume rather than a watch you maintain. Whichever tier you choose, run the six checks in order and walk away when a seller cannot answer two of them.